Lowest Cost And Easiest Way To Eliminate Green Hair, Bubble, Turf And Slime Algae From Your Aquarium (Hopefully Permanently).

[mad23]

Ωραιες πληροφοριες,ευχαριστουμε!

Great info,thank you

[SantaMonica]

Σας ευχαριστώ, ελπίζω ότι η πληροφορία μπορεί να βοηθήσει

[SantaMonica]

Μεταφράστηκε από το Google:

Σκιά ύφασμα:

Όλες οι νέες συσκευές καθαρισμού που χρησιμοποιούν λευκές επιφάνειες ανάπτυξης θα πρέπει να έχουν ένα μαύρο πανί τοποθετείται πάνω από τα LEDs για την πρώτη εβδομάδα ή δύο. Επειδή το all-λευκό εσωτερικό αντανακλά τόσο πολύ φως, όταν είναι καινούργια τα επίπεδα φωτισμού είναι πολύ πάνω από το ανώτατο ποσό που μπορεί να αυξηθεί τίποτα. Απαξ και η ανάπτυξη ξεκινά, οι λευκές επιφάνειες να καλύπτονται με την ανάπτυξη και τα συνολικά επίπεδα φωτός πτώση, και το ύφασμα μπορεί να αφαιρεθεί. Κάθε ύφασμα, αποθήκευση, ή t-shirt μπορεί να λειτουργήσει? απλά δεν λιώσει το πανί με ζεστό LEDs

Αυτή η κάλυψη των φώτων μπορεί να γίνει από οποιονδήποτε, σε οποιαδήποτε καθαριστής, ακόμη και καταρράκτες. Καταρράκτες χρησιμοποιούν πλαστικό μουσαμά που έχει περισσότερες τρύπες από το υλικό, και δεν είναι στα λευκά διαμερίσματα, έτσι ώστε όταν τα νέα δεν είναι τόσο υψηλά τα επίπεδα φωτισμού. Αλλά ακόμα και αν μπορεί να βοηθήσει μια νέα οθόνη παραμένει εντελώς άδειο ή είχαν φαλακρά σημεία.

Ο λόγος για μια λευκά χρώματα, φυσικά, είναι πολύ επιτρέψει περισσότερο φως να φτάσει τη βάση της ανάπτυξης που κάνει το προσαρτημένο στις επιφάνειες. Δεδομένου ότι η ανάπτυξη γίνεται παχύτερο, τα κάτω στρώματα θα είναι σχεδόν στο σκοτάδι, έτσι ώστε η λευκή επιφάνεια διπλασιάζει το φως εκεί που αντανακλούν αντί να απορροφά το φως.

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Shade cloth:

All new scrubbers which use white growth surfaces should have a black cloth placed over the LEDs for the first week or two. Because the all-white interior reflects so much light, when it is new the light levels are way above the highest amount that can grow anything. Once growth starts, the white surfaces get covered with growth and the total light levels drop, and the cloth can be removed. Any cloth, stocking, or t-shirt can work; just don't melt the cloth with hot LEDs

This covering of the lights can be done by anyone, on any scrubber, even waterfalls. Waterfalls use plastic canvas which has more holes than material, and they are not in white compartments, so the light levels when new are not that high. But it still might help if a new screen stays completely empty or had bald spots.

The reason for a white colors, of course, is too allow more light to reach the base of the growth that does the attaching to the surfaces. As the growth gets thicker, the bottom layers will almost be in darkness, so the white surface doubles the light there by reflecting instead of absorbing the light.

[mad23]

Thank you,once again

Much appreciated.

[Discos]

Interesting tip. I bet that would help accelerate ATS start-up period. Thanks again

[SantaMonica]

Yes the bright light, and white surface, are good for growing algae. But they can be too bright when new.

[SantaMonica]

Scrubbers compared to refugiums

If you are starting a new tank, then the obvious difference is that a scrubber gives you the option of not having a fuge at all because an upflow scrubber can be placed on top of, in, or behind, the display. There are other uses for a sump/fuge of course, but we'll only cover the filtration concerns here.

A not-so-obvious difference is that a scrubber, if run together with a fuge with macros, will kill the macros even though the macros are much larger. This is because the scrubber thinks the macros are nuisance algae. Some people do run both together without killing the macros, but this is just because their scrubber is not strong enough, and actually the macros might even be slowing down the scrubber because the scrubber thinks it has to remove the macros, along with the nutrients in the water and the nuisance algae in the display. However if this works for them, good.

But assuming you have to decide on either a sump/fuge or a scrubber (not both)...

o Filtration with algae is proportional photosynthesis, which is proportional to Light X Air Water Turbulence Flow X Attachment. Meaning, stronger light grows more algae; stronger air/water interface turbulence grows more algae; and stronger attachment lets more algae grow without it detaching and floating away. A scrubber is thus designed to maximize Light, Flow, and Attachment.

o The main problem with macros in a refugium is the self-shading that the macros do. Any part of the macro which is not directly in front of the light at any moment is not filtering. And any macro inside of a "ball" of macro (like chaeto) is self-shaded all the time. Only the surface macro that is directly in front of the light is doing any real filtering. A scrubber is designed to have all the algae in front of the light at all times. Rotating the macro does not solve the problem, because the time that the macro is rotated away from the light is time that the macro is not filtering. This is why it takes a much larger size of chaeto to do the same filtering as a scrubber.

o Self-flow-blocking is another problem of macros in a refugium, for the same reason as light-blocking. And the thicker the "ball" of macro, the worse the flow-blocking.

o Particle trapping is another result of a ball of macro. These particles need to cycle back around to feed the corals, but instead they get trapped in the macro and they rot, and in doing so they block even more flow and light.

o With a scrubber, there is very little water standing in the way of the light. Also, the light is (or should be) very close to the scrubber... 4 inches (10cm) or less. The power of light varies with the inverse square of the distance, so going from 8" to 4" actually gives you 4X the power, not 2X. And the nutrient removal power of algae is proportional to the power of the light, because it's the photosynthesis that is doing the filtering.

o Rapid flow across the algae in a scrubber gives more delivery of nutrients, compared to the slow moving water in a fuge. Filtering is proportion to nutrient flow.

o The turbulence of water moving over the sections of algae in a scrubber help to remove the boundary layer of water around the algae. This boundary layer slows the transfer of metabolites in and out of the algae. There is no turbulence in a fuge (if there were, you'd have waves and bubbles). The interface between the air and water is what provides the most turbulence and boundary layer removal; there is no air/water interface in macros.

o Scrubbers do not let food particles settle like a refugium does; most particles flow right out of the scrubber.

o Scrubbers do not (if cleaned properly) release algal strands into display, like chaeto does.

o Scrubbers do not go sexual, like caulerpa can.

o Scrubbers do grow lots of pods; more than was previously thought, especially if not cleaned with freshwater.

o Scrubber don't, obviously, provide a place for snails and crabs, etc.

However, if you already have a sump with an empty compartment, and you don't mind using all of it and putting a light over it, then maybe it's easier and cheaper to try macros first.

[SantaMonica]

Cleaning Off Slime On New Scrubbers

 

When scrubbers are new, they will almost always first develop a slimey first layer of growth. This is because diatoms and dino's, which make up most of the slime, are the quickest to be able to "colonize" a new surface, sort of like weeds in a new garden. 

 

This slime layer will not get any thicker, however, because slime cannot attach well (it has no "roots") to the growth surfaces of the scrubber, and thus will get washed away when it gets thick, Also, it prevents green hair algae from attaching because of the slippery texture of the slime.

 

So when your scrubber is new, be sure to take it to the sink and use a toothbrush to clean all the slime off of the growth surfaces so you can see all white surfaces again. You could clean it while still in your tank if you don't mind the slime particles floating around, but most people would probably do better to take it to the sink (or outside; slime makes great fertilizer). Slime, especially when dark or black, is also an indicator that you can use more watts or hours of light. 

 

Once you have cleaned off the slime for one or more growth periods, you should start seeing green hair algae take hold.

 

[SantaMonica]

Coming this summer 2016:

Waterfall algae scrubber

Version 2

 

After I invented the waterfall scrubber in 2008, it's great that so many people got to DIY it, and it's also great that lots of builders/sellers used it as their design up until the current day. It's had over 7 years to gather hobbyists.

 

2012 was a good year though, when I introduced the upflow scrubber. It's only had 3 years to gather hobbyists, but offers them what they did not have before: a compact place where they can put a scrubber that does not spill over when it fills up.

 

Now that the upflows are established, it's time to do some more work on the waterfalls. They've been unchanged since 2008, and almost every part of them can be improved. So over the next year or two I'll post up the improvements piece by piece. Hopefully the improvements will be useful to all.

 

[SantaMonica]

Παρουσίαση για τα σχολεία

 

http://www.algaescrubber.net/AlgaeScrubbers-plain.pps

[SantaMonica]

Μετάφραση αν θέλετε:

 

Here are some scrubber results I collected:

"[Scrubber] is working incredible well. Went from constant algae outbreaks (3-4 per year), to no algae at all. 10 yr old 250 gal reef tank, started developing blooms at year 7. Nothing else worked, even breakdown and rebuilds." -- Joe Lopez

"I recent removed bio-pellets, GFO, and trimmed off a lot of macro algae. Oh yeah, overfeeding now to try and bring up my phosphates. Since removing a bunch of nutrient exporting systems like bio-pellets, GFO, and a second algae scrubber, my [scrubber] has been growing nuts. It's been less then 7 days and I have to remove more. People are surprised when I open up the [scrubber] and show them what I pull out with one hand" -- ReeferEric on the R2R site. pics:

"I pull a handful out every week" -- Choff on the R2R site.

"Everything is working great, got two of them on my system" -- Kenneth Salomon

Dan Budz:

"The [scrubber] is working well" -- JT Powell

"All I can say about the [scrubber] is WoW. It completely wiped out my severe case of Cyano Bacteria in 4 weeks, it is working like a champ. I was a little skeptical that it would work at first because it's very compact, but I am completely amazed on how great it's working." -- John Quezada

"My [scrubber] is working great" -- Stefan Kolev

"Happy to report that the [scrubber] is growing lots of hair algae" -- Kidtango on the R2R site

"[Scrubber] is growing thick and fast" -- Carl Knowles

"Boom... 7 days growth from my [scrubber]" -- rdevoe11, pic:

Other pics:

Matthew Coulthard:

Nicolay Oganesian:

Yuppy Suhandinata:

[niknik]

Nice aquarium ,thanks for description

[SantaMonica]

Thank you. Hope we can help with filtering others

 

[SantaMonica]

Here are some upflow layout designs to give you ideas of what might fit your tank or ability to DIY better:

 

Simple upflow screen:
 

Attach to glass:

Bubble remover:

Attach to glass, with compartment:

Attach to glass, small:

Hang on back:

Collector:

Floating:

[SantaMonica]

Dark Slime and Black Slime - what it looks like

 

Here are some examples of dark slime, and black slime. Usually slime it starts on new scrubbers which have high measurable nutrients in the water, or on small scrubbers on big tanks with lots of rock where the scrubber is not big enough to pull the nutrients out fast enough.

 

Notice that some of them have white patches; this is because the slime let go and floated away, leaving white surfaces behind.

In all cases, just take it to your sink and toothbrush them (without toothpaste) so that you can see the white surfaces again. 

 

[niknik]

 

A few times you may see  caulerpa or  haeto. The nitrate and phosphorus amount is; it lowers;

Έγινε επεξεργασία 2 Μαίου 2018 - niknik

[SantaMonica]

Πανί σκιάς:

Όλα τα νέα πλυντήρια που χρησιμοποιούν λευκές επιφάνειες ανάπτυξης θα πρέπει να έχουν ένα μαύρο πανί τοποθετημένο πάνω από μερικά από τα LED για την πρώτη ή δύο εβδομάδες. Επειδή το ολόλευκο εσωτερικό αντανακλά τόσο πολύ φως, όταν είναι καινούργιο τα επίπεδα φωτός είναι πολύ πάνω από το υψηλότερο ποσό που μπορεί να αυξήσει οτιδήποτε. Μόλις ξεκινήσει η ανάπτυξη, οι λευκές επιφάνειες καλύπτονται με ανάπτυξη και τα συνολικά επίπεδα φωτός πέφτουν και το ύφασμα μπορεί να αφαιρεθεί. Οποιοδήποτε ύφασμα, κάλτσα ή μπλουζάκι μπορεί να λειτουργήσει. απλά μην λιώσεις το πανί με ζεστά LED

Αυτή η κάλυψη των φώτων μπορεί να γίνει από οποιονδήποτε, σε οποιοδήποτε πλυντήριο, ακόμα και σε καταρράκτες. Οι καταρράκτες χρησιμοποιούν πλαστικό καμβά που έχει περισσότερες τρύπες από το υλικό και δεν βρίσκονται σε λευκά διαμερίσματα, επομένως τα επίπεδα φωτός όταν είναι καινούργια δεν είναι πολύ υψηλά. Αλλά εξακολουθεί να μπορεί να βοηθήσει εάν μια νέα οθόνη παραμένει εντελώς άδεια.

Ο λόγος για τα λευκά χρώματα της οθόνης, φυσικά, είναι ότι αφήνουν περισσότερο φως να φτάσει στη βάση της ανάπτυξης που κάνει την προσκόλληση. Καθώς η ανάπτυξη γίνεται πιο παχιά, τα κάτω στρώματα θα είναι σχεδόν στο σκοτάδι, έτσι η λευκή επιφάνεια διπλασιάζει το φως εκεί αντανακλώντας αντί να απορροφά το φως.

Βάλτε το ύφασμα σκίασης περίπου 2/3 ή 3/4 πάνω από τα φώτα. Με αυτόν τον τρόπο μπορείτε να δείτε ποιο μέρος μεγαλώνει καλύτερα: το καλυμμένο ή ακάλυπτο.

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Shade cloth:

All new scrubbers which use white growth surfaces should have a black cloth placed over some of the LEDs for the first week or two. Because the all-white interior reflects so much light, when it is new the light levels are way above the highest amount that can grow anything. Once growth starts, the white surfaces get covered with growth and the total light levels drop, and the cloth can be removed. Any cloth, stocking, or t-shirt can work; just don't melt the cloth with hot LEDs

This covering of the lights can be done by anyone, on any scrubber, even waterfalls. Waterfalls use plastic canvas which has more holes than material, and they are not in white compartments, so the light levels when new are not too high. But it still might help if a new screen stays completely empty.

The reason for a white colors of the screen, of course, is too allow more light to reach the base of the growth that does the attaching. As the growth gets thicker, the bottom layers will almost be in darkness, so the white surface doubles the light there by reflecting instead of absorbing the light. 

Put the shade cloth about 2/3 or 3/4 over the lights; this way you can see which part grows better: the covered, or uncovered.